On Passage - Fortaleza to Recife
29/02/08 22:01 Filed in: Brazil
27th February 2008
Got up very early to wash the dinghy and disconnect our electricity cable.
Derrick, Deb and Ned on the Pearson 38 next to us were also leaving bound for the Caribbean. We were to leave first allowing plenty of room for them to follow.
Said goodbye to them and to Yves and Armonie from Ermefer berthed on the other side of us.
At 07:00 the stern lines were let go and I began to haul in our very dirty anchor cable. Once we were clear of the berth and virtually above the anchor it became very hard to haul in and had obviously fouled something. In fact we had caught Ermefer's anchor cable. Yves slacked his cable and by climbing into the dinghy I was able to free our anchor.
We cleared the marina and dropped anchor in the fishing harbour to get the dinghy on board and clean the anchor cable which was in a filthy state after a month on the bottom. It looked as though the galvanising was fading in places.
At 09:00 we cleared harbour and were on our way. There was very little wind and we motor sailed around Praia do Futuro light and set course for Cabo Calcanhar passing many typical Brazilian inshore fishing vessels with very low freeboard and large curved sails.
By 15:20 the wind had increased and the engine was turned off. We proceeded under full rig. At 17:00 one reef was put in the main and the yankee furled 1/4.
During the night we passed many fishing boats and I took 20 minute naps when possible.
28th February 2008
The number of fishing boats decreased as we headed for deep water (>100m) and by dawn the wind had started to fade. Ran the engine for an hour to clear a final group of fishing boats.
During the morning boats speed was around 2.5kn with the wind ENE F3. Our Raymarine (Autohelm) anemometer had now failed permanently. Direction indication was OK but the wind speed cups appeared to have seized again. This unit was only repaired in December 2005 and deployed from May 2006 so it has only lasted 1 year and 8 months. Appalling!
Our noon run was 80.48 miles. The wind faded and then strengthened again. At 14:00 we were running under the main with 1 reef, the staysail and the yankee 1/4 furled.
Nothing was seen during the day but 2 vessels passed in the dark before midnight.
Being close to the coast I again took 20 minute naps when possible.
29th February 2008
Around midnight I came on deck to see a cruise ship bound NW about a mile off the port bow and passing clear. When I had gone below for a 20 min nap earlier this ship had not been visible.
Wind F3-4 E-NE and the more east it is the harder to maintain our desired course. I do not want to be set back into the shallower fishing grounds off Cabo Calcanhar.
At 09:00 we tacked and motor sailed for 2.5 hours to take us further offshore. At noon we resumed our desired course of 110º T and continued to motor sail in light winds. At 14:30 the engine was turned off and we proceeded under full rig
In the early evening the wind dropped and veered pushing us back toward the inshore fishing grounds. It was necessary to tack out to sea again.
Later in Passage
Got up very early to wash the dinghy and disconnect our electricity cable.
Derrick, Deb and Ned on the Pearson 38 next to us were also leaving bound for the Caribbean. We were to leave first allowing plenty of room for them to follow.
Said goodbye to them and to Yves and Armonie from Ermefer berthed on the other side of us.
At 07:00 the stern lines were let go and I began to haul in our very dirty anchor cable. Once we were clear of the berth and virtually above the anchor it became very hard to haul in and had obviously fouled something. In fact we had caught Ermefer's anchor cable. Yves slacked his cable and by climbing into the dinghy I was able to free our anchor.
We cleared the marina and dropped anchor in the fishing harbour to get the dinghy on board and clean the anchor cable which was in a filthy state after a month on the bottom. It looked as though the galvanising was fading in places.
At 09:00 we cleared harbour and were on our way. There was very little wind and we motor sailed around Praia do Futuro light and set course for Cabo Calcanhar passing many typical Brazilian inshore fishing vessels with very low freeboard and large curved sails.
By 15:20 the wind had increased and the engine was turned off. We proceeded under full rig. At 17:00 one reef was put in the main and the yankee furled 1/4.
During the night we passed many fishing boats and I took 20 minute naps when possible.
28th February 2008
The number of fishing boats decreased as we headed for deep water (>100m) and by dawn the wind had started to fade. Ran the engine for an hour to clear a final group of fishing boats.
During the morning boats speed was around 2.5kn with the wind ENE F3. Our Raymarine (Autohelm) anemometer had now failed permanently. Direction indication was OK but the wind speed cups appeared to have seized again. This unit was only repaired in December 2005 and deployed from May 2006 so it has only lasted 1 year and 8 months. Appalling!
Our noon run was 80.48 miles. The wind faded and then strengthened again. At 14:00 we were running under the main with 1 reef, the staysail and the yankee 1/4 furled.
Nothing was seen during the day but 2 vessels passed in the dark before midnight.
Being close to the coast I again took 20 minute naps when possible.
29th February 2008
Around midnight I came on deck to see a cruise ship bound NW about a mile off the port bow and passing clear. When I had gone below for a 20 min nap earlier this ship had not been visible.
Wind F3-4 E-NE and the more east it is the harder to maintain our desired course. I do not want to be set back into the shallower fishing grounds off Cabo Calcanhar.
At 09:00 we tacked and motor sailed for 2.5 hours to take us further offshore. At noon we resumed our desired course of 110º T and continued to motor sail in light winds. At 14:30 the engine was turned off and we proceeded under full rig
In the early evening the wind dropped and veered pushing us back toward the inshore fishing grounds. It was necessary to tack out to sea again.
Later in Passage
Last Day - Fortaleza
Check out Day. I took a taxi to the Policia Federal where an exit permit was quickly issued. This time I was able to walk along inside the dock security area to Receita Federal where another exit permit was issued.
Submarine conning tower in a park just outside the port office complex.
Then I took another taxi to the Capitania dos Portos where my form was stamped. Formalities over. This was a much faster process than when we had arrived.
The rest of the day was spent preparing for sea including topping up with fresh water. Our new centre tank still leaks but it was topped up anyway. A quick visit to Pao de Azucar for some fresh food and we were ready. Mooring cost for 4 weeks R$500.
I can't stay that I particularly enjoyed Fortaleza hope Recife will be an improvement.
Submarine conning tower in a park just outside the port office complex.
Then I took another taxi to the Capitania dos Portos where my form was stamped. Formalities over. This was a much faster process than when we had arrived.
The rest of the day was spent preparing for sea including topping up with fresh water. Our new centre tank still leaks but it was topped up anyway. A quick visit to Pao de Azucar for some fresh food and we were ready. Mooring cost for 4 weeks R$500.
I can't stay that I particularly enjoyed Fortaleza hope Recife will be an improvement.
Gas Repairs
Half way across from the Cape Verdes our gas pipe failed. The cooker connection angle was unsuitable for heavy rolling and the hose was not up to the job. Nor was it long enough.
When the problem was spotted 3 of 4 layers on this hose had failed. Only the inner core remained intact.
As the boat rolled the cooker connection stress the hose just before the press fitted connection.
Original hose before removal.
New longer hose with a more suitable angle for the cooker connection.
Fixing the problem was not going to be easy. Gas fittings around the world are not standard and I had no hope of matching the original fittings in Brazil. A large Taxi fare and many stops produced a replacement hose (not armoured) and 4 circlips.
I had to cut the connections from the old hose and use circlips to make connections to the new. I doubt this arrangement meets GORGI standards but it definitely does not leak and I have a cooker again.
When the problem was spotted 3 of 4 layers on this hose had failed. Only the inner core remained intact.
As the boat rolled the cooker connection stress the hose just before the press fitted connection.
Original hose before removal.
New longer hose with a more suitable angle for the cooker connection.
Fixing the problem was not going to be easy. Gas fittings around the world are not standard and I had no hope of matching the original fittings in Brazil. A large Taxi fare and many stops produced a replacement hose (not armoured) and 4 circlips.
I had to cut the connections from the old hose and use circlips to make connections to the new. I doubt this arrangement meets GORGI standards but it definitely does not leak and I have a cooker again.
Mooring Problems
It turned out that while I was away Kiriwina's anchor had been disturbed by a departing boat effectively shortening the distance from the anchor to the dock.
Yves from the french yacht Ermefer on the next berth said that the swell had been bigger for a few days and that Kiriwina, due to the anchor being disturbed, had been banging against the steel pontoons. He had stabilised things as much as he could and put a fender on the Aries which took all the impact.
It was a real credit to the Aries that it took a bit of a bashing and only suffered a some scuffed paintwork and the gears were knocked out of alignment. Otherwise the boat was undamaged.
How the Aries gearing should look.
How it looked after being bashed against the steel pontoon
Withe Yves help I was able to remove the Aries from the boat, reset the gears and re-install all within an hour.
This incident confirmed my opinion that this marina is not a safe berth and boats should not be left unattended for more than a few hours. The swell surge is persistent and it is very very easy for anchors and cables from different boats to foul each other.
This is how far off I moored Kiriwina and she still banged into the pontoon when the anchor was disturbed.
Yves from the french yacht Ermefer on the next berth said that the swell had been bigger for a few days and that Kiriwina, due to the anchor being disturbed, had been banging against the steel pontoons. He had stabilised things as much as he could and put a fender on the Aries which took all the impact.
It was a real credit to the Aries that it took a bit of a bashing and only suffered a some scuffed paintwork and the gears were knocked out of alignment. Otherwise the boat was undamaged.
How the Aries gearing should look.
How it looked after being bashed against the steel pontoon
Withe Yves help I was able to remove the Aries from the boat, reset the gears and re-install all within an hour.
This incident confirmed my opinion that this marina is not a safe berth and boats should not be left unattended for more than a few hours. The swell surge is persistent and it is very very easy for anchors and cables from different boats to foul each other.
This is how far off I moored Kiriwina and she still banged into the pontoon when the anchor was disturbed.
Return to Brazil
It snowed heavily agin in Toronto the day I left. The airport bus trip took twice as long due to very heavy traffic congestion caused by the snow.
The Air Canada flight left on time on the evening of the 13th arriving in Sao Paolo on the 14th. I can't say I enjoyed the Air Canada flights very much. The GOL flghts on the other hand were excellent.
Got back on board at around 19:00 in the evening and it was immediately obvious that something was not right.
The moorings were very loose and Kiriwina was swinging about a great deal more than when I had left.
The Air Canada flight left on time on the evening of the 13th arriving in Sao Paolo on the 14th. I can't say I enjoyed the Air Canada flights very much. The GOL flghts on the other hand were excellent.
Got back on board at around 19:00 in the evening and it was immediately obvious that something was not right.
The moorings were very loose and Kiriwina was swinging about a great deal more than when I had left.
Toronto
12/02/08 22:25 Filed in: Canada
My flight from Sao Paolo arrived in Toronto on 7th Feb. more or less on time but disembarking was delayed due to problems with gate access and then with the gate itself.
It was cold, around -8º, and there had been heavy snow.
I was met at the airport and spent a very enjoyable week seeing old friends and experiencing some Canadian winter conditions.
Toronto had had unusually heavy snowfall.
Also had a good night out at Hugh's room where we saw John Hammond.
At this stage I had still not decided whether to go north or south from Fortaleza. To cover all the bases I purchased appropriate Carribean and U.S. charts and pilot books from the very helpful staff at The Nautical Mind in Toronto.
It was cold, around -8º, and there had been heavy snow.
I was met at the airport and spent a very enjoyable week seeing old friends and experiencing some Canadian winter conditions.
Toronto had had unusually heavy snowfall.
Also had a good night out at Hugh's room where we saw John Hammond.
At this stage I had still not decided whether to go north or south from Fortaleza. To cover all the bases I purchased appropriate Carribean and U.S. charts and pilot books from the very helpful staff at The Nautical Mind in Toronto.
To Canada
I had an early afternoon flight from Fortaleza to Sa Paolo with GOL.
Checkin only took a couple of minutes. The queue was quite long but they had enthusiastic staff working the line with handheld devices which printed boarding cards. As I only had hand luggage my card was printed on the spot and that was it. Very impressive.
My flight was on time in a virtually new aircraft.
I had a few hours in Sao Paolo before my flight to Toronto boarded at 21:55. With Air Canada checkin took an hour and a half and we left a little late because of some technical problems.
Checkin only took a couple of minutes. The queue was quite long but they had enthusiastic staff working the line with handheld devices which printed boarding cards. As I only had hand luggage my card was printed on the spot and that was it. Very impressive.
My flight was on time in a virtually new aircraft.
I had a few hours in Sao Paolo before my flight to Toronto boarded at 21:55. With Air Canada checkin took an hour and a half and we left a little late because of some technical problems.
Fortaleza
Not a lot has been happening for the past week and I've spent a lot of time in my bunk. I managed to catch a bad cold (in Brazil!!) and pick up some sort of bug at the same time.
I did get a chance to wander around the Marina Park Hotel complex.
Looking towards the marina and hotel from the pool area.
Palm grove adjacent to the pool area.
Marina with Fortaleza cathedral in the background.
Bulk carrier wreck just outside the harbour entrance.
Kiriwina on her berth at marina Park.
Marina pontoons facing north...
...and south.
Harbour entrance. This is open to the north and a good deal of swell works its way into the marina.
Tomorrow I will fly to Canada.
I did get a chance to wander around the Marina Park Hotel complex.
Looking towards the marina and hotel from the pool area.
Palm grove adjacent to the pool area.
Marina with Fortaleza cathedral in the background.
Bulk carrier wreck just outside the harbour entrance.
Kiriwina on her berth at marina Park.
Marina pontoons facing north...
...and south.
Harbour entrance. This is open to the north and a good deal of swell works its way into the marina.
Tomorrow I will fly to Canada.